Trip Report - North Korea

[Nick W.]

This trip report is, to put it simply, massive! Over 900 photos were taken in 6 days and 6 hours of video, so I'll be deliberate with my writing and try to keep just the best bits!

Photos of the trip can be seen at the following links:

http://www.new.facebook.com/album.ph...b&id=545096696
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.ph...3&id=545096696
http://www.new.facebook.com/album.ph...8&id=545096696

Tour is courtesy of Koryo Tours (www.koryotours.com)

And this trip report is simply everything that has come to be in a stream of consciousness style, and I have cut that down considerably. I'm keen to answer any questions on my trip, a brief run-down is: SYD-SIN-PEK, then PEK-FNJ, North Korea for 5 nights (Pyongyang, then Mt Myohyang, then Pyongyang, then Kaesong (DMZ), then Pyongyang).

Part 1: SYD-SIN-PEK-FNJ
Part 2: 5 nights in North Korea
Part 3: Return trip home

In terms of holidays destinations, I never thought I actually would visit the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, or North Korea as it is commonly known. I have always had a fascination with the country, mostly out of my passion for Cold War history, as does my father. So, earlier this year we decided we would try to make that journey to a very rare location, and experience something very special. We left Sydney on November 4 and returned on November 12. This trip report has the written permission of Koryo Tours (www.koryotours.com)

November 4
Flight from Sydney to Beijing, via Singapore

Flight Number: SQ222
Route: SYD-SIN
Aircraft: A380, 9V-SKC
Est. Departure Time: 1640 (local), Gate 57
Captain Ho, F/O Jason Lin
7hr, 35min
RWY 16R, FL380, Seat 75A
Taxi: 1645, Take Off: 161
At 2024 (Syd time), FL400, over Indonesia, 1696km to go, 907km/h, -55 degrees celcius
Top of Descent 2356 (SYD)
Touchdown 0020 (SYD), RWY 02L, Gate A1
Shutdown 0032 (SYD)

The A380 hugely impressed me. We had upper deck seating, and the cabin felt just the right size for a long-ish flight to Singapore. I even gave my camera to a flight attendant who very happily went away to take photos of the flight deck for me, some first class seating and a few of his favourite crew members as well! Also, whilst at SYD we volunteered for the new x-ray testing at the security screening area. Altogether very easy, maybe a little bit longer than the standard metal detector method, but if you don't want to have to take your belt and shoes and whatever off, it comes out quicker in the end!

We then had a few hours to kill in the terminal before our next flight. Whilst in the terminal I saw some Red Bull Air Race crew, and had a chat with them for a little while. They were off home after the Perth Round, and looked pleased to have finished another epic race! SIN terminal was very quite at such a late time, and I was particularly tired! Earlier that day on November 4 I had just sat my last HSC exam (Physics), and left on the A380 that afternoon – what a way to end!

Flight Number: SQ800
Route: SIN-PEK
Aircraft: B772, 9V-SQD, Seat 34K
Gate: A2
Est. Dept. Time: 0115 (SIN time)
Est. Arr. Time: 0637 (SIN), 5hr 3nmin flight time (estimated)
Pushback: 0123 Local
Engine Start: 0124
Takeoff: 0127
Over SE China we had a 40km/h head wind
Top of descent 07:34 (PEK)
Touchdown 0707, RWY 36R
Gate 518
Shutdown 0715

November 5
Overall, the trip to Beijing was long, especially due to the exam period ending on the day that I left! We arrived quite early in the morning, Beijing time, and had a very long day of getting our visas, doing a big of shopping and trying to get into the timezone, which is (admittedly) not that hard, but after such a long trip we wanted to sleep straight away!
We stayed at the Swissotel Beijing, a very nice hotel, and part of the Hong Kong Macau Centre, in which the Air Koryo office also is.
But, enough of all of this! Everyone knows about Beijing, and North Korea is the focus of this trip report!

November 6
Route: PEK-FNJ
Flight Number: JS252
Aircraft: TU-154 B-2, rego P-561
Terminal 2, gate 9, Seat 6F
Boarding Time: 1345
Est. Dept.: 1415
Pushback: 1411
Engine Start: 1414
Taxi: 1415
Takeoff: 36R, 1423
Top of Descent: 1525
Landing: RWY 1, 1537
Gate: 1546
Shutdown: 1546

This flight was quite an experience, to say the least! After coming from the A380 for our first leg of this journey, the 1983 TU-154 was a bit different! A time machine when you stepped inside the cabin, flight attendants in meticulous red uniforms with white gloves, no advanced electronics in the cabin like IFE or anything that we have come to expect on our flights, seats that were a bit flimsy and an ambience in the cabin that felt very warm, but unsettling amongst the passengers. This was, importantly, our first meeting with North Korean people, who are easily identified by a red badge with the Great Leader’s face which they wear over their heart. The significance of this is debatable (whilst some may revere him like a prophet for man-kind, others see him as a representation of nationalism), but is an indicator of nationalism and pride in a nation that I have never encountered previously. As soon as I sat down outside the gate a North Korean gentleman came up to me and had a brief chat about North Korea, noting that we stood out amongst the other travellers for JS252!

The meals were just like any other, if anything better! On the flight back in particular, where the sandwhich was far better than some of the over-heated mush you get on other airlines. Sadly, the person in front of my on the flight over didn't agree - the poor guy was very sick, and I don't think the cramped cabin and loud engines helped him much!

Pyongyang International Airport is very different to other airports all over the world, not so much in form, but instead how quiet it is for such a large space of land! Also, although I'm used to the pride that the North Korean people have in their past, you can't help but initially feel a bit uneasy, especially as Australia was one of the satelite states mobilised for the 1950-53 Korean War. Always interesting for those who like modern history, when you first enter DPRK airspace, a flight attendant comes over the PA and speaks of the heroic actions of the Revolutionary Martyrs.

Upon landing at FNJ, the conditions were far from pleasing. Thick cloud cover made visibility questionable, and the ground really just came out of nowhere when we finally broke through the clouds! Taxiing past the ILS facilities I saw a bicycle propped outside the door, something that made me wonder if the systems were turned on just for us – seeing as though there are less than 5 flights a day, I wouldn’t be surprised.

The new TU-204 of Air Koryo was not operating throughout the entire time we were in NK. It had coverings over the wheels, flightdeck windows and engines, and was tied down amidst other JS aircraft that were not operating any time soon. I would most likely conclude that this is due to the tourist season coming to and end at the time (most tour groups have about 50 people on them, ours had 2). If anything I was happy to have the TU-154 instead, an aircraft that (for me) is rather rare!

The terminal is epic in its size, as are all government buildings in North Korea. There is a strong pride in these buildings, and a belief that such structure inspire the people, something that holds some truth in how people respect and admire such places. As one of four westerners on the aircraft, our contact in Beijing had said to us “your guide will find you”, and whilst we (then) wondered how, we soon realised that we stood out a fair bit in that arrivals hall. Police and army were everywhere to be seen, and although initially intimidating, it’s surprising how quickly you get used to seeing these men and women everywhere you go!

FNJ is the only airport where I have been frisked and passed through the metal detector my flight, but nonetheless we were all fine with it! Bags were checked, and contrary to popular belief we were not taken to some back room and questioned - the hype about North Korean security was already being eroded. Security staff were very friendly, and although a limited knowledge of English (which I think is fair enough, too. Upon returning to PEK a week later I saw an American woman abusing a Chinese security guard as he did not speak and English - fancy that, a Chinese citizen in China being given the third degree for not speaking another language fluently...).

As I said before, it was a very foggy evening, making it an altogether eery setting. There are no photos of this point of the trip as we had been previously warned to not take photos until we are told we can, but that isn't quite the case - the guides are very accomodating, and it's just like any other country in my opinion, the only difference is that some tourists go out of their way to take photos of things they shouldn't be in North Korea just to say they did.

Here ends the first part of my trip report, and I hope you have all enjoyed it! Next will be our movements within North Korea, some of the amazing sights we saw and (hopefully) some better commentary! For now, one of my many books that I bought (this one being 'Kim Jong Il: Day of Having Korea Reunified, North Korean Scenario for War and Peace' by Kim Myong Chol is captivating me! maybe a book report next time...)

In the 3rd Facebook album you can see the safety card and boarding passes of Air Koryo!

Enjoy the photos, and fire any questions at me, be they aviation related or just about the DPRK in general.

Nick